Guidebook Updates for France

When we learn of critical changes to the information in our guidebooks on France, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!

Across France

  • Per new requirements set by the UK government, all passengers on Eurostar trains to/from the UK must now enter their passport details online before boarding. Once you've bought a ticket, enter your ticket's reference number at Eurostar's Manage Your Booking page to reach the page for entering your passport info. If you don't have a reference number issued by Eurostar, head to the manual check-in desk at the Eurostar terminal. Given the UK's new procedures for border checks, it's especially important to allow plenty of time for check-in (Eurostar recommends that standard-class passengers departing from Paris Gare du Nord arrive 90–120 minutes ahead of their departure time; gates close 30 minutes before departure).

For books printed before April 2024, the following may also apply:

  • In Provence and the French Riviera, buses are now run by the Zou bus network, and bus numbers have changed (timetables at Rome2Rio are easier to use than those on Zou's own site).
  • High-speed Thalys trains — which run the only direct trains between Paris and Brussels — have been rebranded as, and are now operated by, Eurostar. (Prices have not changed significantly; see our France Rail Passes and Train Tips page.)

For books printed before October 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Eurail Select Passes are no longer being sold (but similarly priced Global Passes still are) — see our 2019 rail-travel update.

For books printed before January 2019, the following may also apply:

  • French hotels recently won the legal right to undercut Booking.com and Hotels.com prices on their own hotel websites; virtually all hotels can offer lower rates than a site like Booking.com if you book directly. If you find a cheaper offer on a third-party site, let the hotel know, and they'll likely be willing to adjust their direct booking rate.
  • Baggage check services near train stations are becoming more common throughout France (through hotels, tourist information offices, and small shops). Day-trippers should always ask about available baggage check services at the tourist information office.
  • The speed limit for two-lane D and N routes is now 80 km/hour unless the road has a divider separating the lanes, in which case it's 90 km/hour.

Aix-en-Provence

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The email address for Hôtel Cézanne is now [email protected].
  • The Brunet Chocolatier mentioned in the "Aix-en-Provence Walk" and noted for its macarons has closed. (A different shop has opened at that location, but it sells very few macarons.)
  • A fire destroyed the historic Les Deux Garçons restaurant.

Alsace

For books printed before October 2022, the following may apply:

  • Alsascope minivan tours of the Route du Vin are no longer in business.
  • The Albert Schweitzer Museum in Kayserberg is slated has reopened after a long renovation.
  • Lulu Cycles in Colmar has moved to 26 Avenue Jean de Lattre de Tassigny.
  • The Strasbourg Pass is no longer available; the new city card is generally not worthwhile.
  • Hôtel St. Hubert in Eguisheim is has been renamed the James Vignoble Hôtel ([email protected]).

Arles and nearby

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • In summer it's best to book your free entry to the Frank Gehry–designed Tower at LUMA Arles online in advance.
  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Bus #707 (not #57) connects Arles and St-Rémy-de-Provence via Les Baux in summer. Bus #704 (not #54) also goes to St-Rémy (but not via Les Baux) and runs all year.
  • Hôtel de la Muette has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • Les Filles du 16 has closed.
  • The Navia shuttle in Arles is no longer free and is now €1.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

Avignon and nearby

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • Between June and September, it's a good idea to book timed-entry tickets for the Palace of the Popes in advance of your visit. Also, the palace's light show has been discontinued.
  • The Nîmes-Orange Pass been discontinued.
  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Bus #126 (between Nîmes' Pont du Gard TGV station and the Pont du Gard) is no longer running.
  • Bus #707 (not #57) connects Avignon and St-Rémy-de-Provence via Les Baux in summer.
  • Bus #902 (not #2) connects Avignon with Orange (hourly Mon–Sat, 3/day Sun, 1 hour).
  • Bus #906 (not #6) connects Avignon with Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • L'Essentiel restaurant in Avignon has closed.
  • Nîmes now has a second train station: Nîmes Pont du Gard, a TGV station that's nine miles out of town (and nowhere near the Pont du Gard). Nîmes Centre remains the better station to use for reaching the city by train.
  • Restaurant Le Vintage and Rotisserie Thibaud, both in Nîmes, have closed.
  • L'Imprévu eatery in Nîmes is now Cézarine, and is under new ownership.

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The Romanity Pass has been discontinued.
  • The Patrick Mallard pastry shop mentioned in the "Discovering Avignon's Back Streets Walk" has closed.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The Oscar restaurant in the La Roquette district has closed.

Basque Country

For books printed before July 2024, the following may apply:

  • ​The Basque Museum in Bilbao remains closed for renovations.
  • Claire Lohiague is no longer working as a guide in Bayonne.
  • The Chronoplus and Hegobus bus lines in the French Basque region are now operated by a new company, Txik Txak.

Burgundy

For books printed before October 2022, the following may apply:

  • Château de la Rochepot is closed indefinitely.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The number for the Transco bus connecting Beaune to the Route des Grand Crus is now #113.
  • The Domaine des Anges guesthouse in Puligny-Montrachet has closed.
  • The bus serving Cluny, Macôn, and Chalon-sur-Saône is now numbered #701.

Brittany

For books printed before October 2022, the following may apply:

  • Hôtel du la Gare in Dinan has closed; you can instead leave your bags at the recommended launderette at 19 Rue de Brest.
  • Dinan's tourist "train" now leaves from Place Duclos-Pinot, in the upper old town.
  • La Marmite de l'Abbaye in Léhon is now the Côté Cour café.
  • La Cale de Mordreuc (in the Rance River valley) has closed, and there's no more seal. La Ferme du Boucanier has also closed.
  • The foot ferry between St-Malo and Dinard now alternates between two different jetties in Dinard: Cale de la Vallée and the Embarcadère, near the big elevated ferry-ticket office. Check which jetty your ferry will leave from for your return journey. 

Chamonix

For books printed before June 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Alpine Museum (to be renamed the Mont Blanc Museum / Musée du Mont Blanc when it reopens) may remain closed for renovation until 2026.

Chartres

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • Malcolm Miller has retired from leading daily tours of Chartres Cathedral, though you can still arrange for a private tour with him ([email protected]). Regularly scheduled tours (still Tue–Sat at 12:00) are led by the excellent Anne-Marie Woods and run from Easter (not mid-May) until mid-October, including all of August (but no tours on religious holidays).
  • Le Picoterie restaurant has closed.

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Chartres Cathedral tours now run just once a day (Tue–Sat).

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

Châteaux near Paris

For books printed before September 2022, the following may apply:

Côtes du Rhône

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Nîmes-Orange Pass been discontinued.
  • Bus #902 (not #2) connects Orange with Avignon (hourly Mon–Sat, 3/day Sun, 1 hour).
  • Bus #904 (not #4) connects Orange with Vaison-la-Romaine and continues to Sablet and Ségure (6/day Mon–Sat, 2/day Sun).
  • Bus #911 (not #11) connects Viason-la-Romaine with Crestet/Malaucène (5/day Mon–Fri, 3/day Sat, none on Sun, 10–20 minutes).
  • Bus #922 (not #23) connects Orange with Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7/day Mon–Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes).
  • Côté Vignes restaurant (on the Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive) is now closed Mondays in the off-season (not Wednesdays).
  • La Poterne de Pascale in Brantes (also on the Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive) is now closed Mondays (not Wednesdays) year-round, and closed entirely in the off-season (Nov–March).
  • Cave la Romaine in Vaison-la-Romaine is closed Sundays in the off-season (Oct–April).

Dordogne

For books printed before June 2024, the following may apply:

  • Grotte de Font-de-Gaume and Abri du Cap Blanc will be closed either Saturdays or Mondays year-round. A final decision on closed day(s) is pending from the French monuments authority.
  • The Taverne des Remparts in Beynac only offers a house aperitif to Rick Steves readers who order a meal.

For books printed before October 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Local guide Angelika Simeon, who leads tours to prehistoric caves, now charges €195 for a half-day tour.

French Riviera

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Chagall Museum in Nice often closes at lunchtime (12:00–14:00) and may close at other odd times (check its site for the latest).
  • Buses and trams in the Riviera no longer accept tickets per se; now you need to first purchase a €2 travel card (available in digital or physical form) to which you add funds to cover the cost of your ride(s). Travel cards are available via the Lignes d'Azur mobile app, in person from bus drivers, at vending machines at Nice's main train station and at key tram/bus stops (including at the airport), and at Lignes d'Azur offices. Single trips on Nice's city buses cost €1.70 (covers 74 minutes of travel in one direction including transfers); an all-day pass is €7, and a seven-day pass is €20. Round-trip travel by tram between Nice's airport and the city center costs €10.
  • Buses in the Riviera are now run by the Zou bus network, and bus numbers have changed (timetables at Rome2Rio are easier to use than those on Zou's own site). Main changes to note:
    • Bus #601 (not #100) connects Nice with Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and Monaco.
    • Bus #620 (not #200) connects Nice with Cagnes-sur-Mer and Cannes (4/hour Mon–Sat, 2/hour Sun).
    • Bus #603 (not #116) connects Nice with La Turbie and Monaco along the High Corniche (5/day, leaves from Pont Michel T-1 tram stop in Nice).
    • Bus #650 (not #500) connects Nice and Grasse (2/hour, 1 hour).
    • To connect Nice with St-Paul-de-Vence, take the train between Nice and Cagnes-sur-Mer and the frequent bus #655 (not #400, which had run all the way to/from Nice) between Cagnes-sur-Mer and St-Paul-de-Vence (allow about one hour total). Bus #655 also serves Vence.
    • Bus #80 (not #110) connects Nice's airport with Monaco (Place d'Armes stop).
    • Bus #81 (not #210) connects Nice's airport with Cannes' train station.
    • Bus #82 (not #250) connect's Nice's airport with from Antibes.
  • The phone number for Nice's tourist information office is now +33 4 92 14 46 14.
  • The tourist information office next to Cannes' train station has closed.
  • Le Cantine de Tiflo restaurant in Villefranche-sur-Mer has closed.
  • La Cabane de l'Ecailler restaurant in in St-Jean has closed.
  • Two recommended restaurants in Antibes, Chez Lulu and Le P'tit Cageot, have closed.
  • Parking in Eze-le-Village is now easy, thanks to a big new underground parking garage.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The Lignes d'Azur info desk at 17 Rue Thiers in Nice has closed, but Nice's main train station still has a Lignes d'Azur info desk. Office hours are now generally Mon–Fri 7:30–17:30, Saturday until 15:00, and closed Sunday.
  • The combo-ticket for Villa Kérylos and Le Trophée des Alpes is no longer available.
  • Transportation to Le Trophée des Alpes from Nice has changed: Bus #116 leaves from the Vauban tram stop except on Sundays, where it departs from the Pont St. Michel tram stop.
  • Nice's airport buses #98 and #99 have ceased operations. Instead the T-2 tram line runs between the airport and Port Lympia.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Nice's Tram #2 now goes from the Nice airport to the city center at Jean Médecin, where visitors can transfer to Tram #1.
  • Coco & Rico restaurant in Nice (near the Promenade des Anglais) has closed.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Cruise lines now provide a shuttle boat right from the cruise dock at Port of La Seyne-sur-Mer (near Toulon) that takes passengers directly to Toulon's central waterfront (free or €10, depending on cruise line, 20 minutes).

Inland Riviera

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • To connect Nice with St-Paul-de-Vence, take the train between Nice and Cagnes-sur-Mer and the frequent bus #655 (not #400, which had run all the way to/from Nice) between Cagnes-sur-Mer and St-Paul-de-Vence (allow about one hour total). Bus #655 also serves Vence.
  • Bus #650 (not #500) connects Nice and Grasse (2/hour, 1 hour).
  • Bus #651 (not #510/511) connects Vence and Grasse.
  • Bus #660 (not #600) connects Grasse and Cannes.
  • Tickets for the Chapel of the Rosary (Chapelle du Rosaire) in Vence no longer include a 20-minute nun-led tour.
  • A shuttle bus now connects the Chapel of the Rosary in Vence and the Fondation Maeght in St-Paul-de-Vence. It runs July–Sept.
  • Grasse's tourist information office has moved to Cours Honoré Cresp, across from the International Museum of Perfume.
  • Grasse's free and easy Centrifolia bus links the train station with the center city every 15–20 minutes (runs daily).
  • The Grand Canyon du Verdon's Cavaliers Trail and Imbut Trail may be closed during your visit (because of rockslides).
  • The Château de Villeneuve is now formally known as the Vence Museum.
  • Les Agapes restaurant in Vence has closed.
  • La Treille Muscate restaurant in Moustiers-Ste-Marie has closed.

For books printed before November 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The Chapel of the Rosary in Vence is now open Tue and Thu–Fri 10:00–12:00 & 14:00–18:00, Wed–Sat 14:00–18:00 (until 17:00 Nov–March; closed Sun–Mon year-round, and all week mid-Nov–mid-Dec).

 

Languedoc-Roussillon

For books printed before June 2024, the following may apply:

  • Didier minivan service in Carcassonne is no longer in operation (Didier has retired); instead try Jean-Michel of Sun Tour, who offers tours in and near Carcassonne, as well as transportation (+33 6 12 27 47 01, [email protected]).
  • Hostel Carcassonne is now Hostel Cœur de Cité.

For books printed before October 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The Gerard Sion Galerie in Carcassonne has closed.
  • Le Moulin de Lastours restaurant north of Carcassonne has closed.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • Hôtel Espace Cité in Carcassonne has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Chambres le Grand Puits in Carcassonne has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Ferrairolles Eco Guesthouse, located south of Carcassonne, has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Hôtel d'Alibert in Caunes-Minervois has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Visit Provence tour company has closed.

Loire Valley

For books printed before October 2022, the following may apply:

  • You can now store bags in Amboise at the recommended Roue Lib bike shop for a small fee.
  • The Navette Azalys bus no longer runs between Blois and Chaumont-sur-Loire. To reach Chaumont-sur-Loire from Blois, take the train to Onzain, which is a 10-minute bus ride from the château.
  • Château de Cheverny is not currently holding public feedings of its hunting dogs, and as yet has no plan to resume them.
  • The Chinon tourist information office's annex near the fortress entrance (on Rue Porte du Château) is now only open in July and August.
  • Night visits (till 23:00) to Château D'Azay-le-Rideau have been suspended indefinitely.
  • You can rent bikes in the village of Villandry at the tourist information office located a few hundred yards west of the château.
  • LÉtape Gourmande (at Domaine de la Giraudière, between Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau) is now closed on Wednesdays.
  • The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud (near Chinon) now has a highly recommended new museum of modern art. You can park free at the first "P" lot you see as you approach the abbey from the large, tree-lined square.
  • The train is handy for connecting Tours and Langeais, but connections from Chinon and Azay-le-Rideau are more difficult, making e-bike rental worth considering.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • The Amboise tourist information office no longer stores bags.

For books printed before January 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Touraine Evasion no longer runs a high-season direct shuttle from Amboise to Chenonceau. Its other routes, including group tours that connect both Chambord and Chenonceau in one day, still run.

Luberon

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • Isle-sur-la-Sorgue's Antique Toy and Doll Museum has closed.
  • Bus #906 (not #6) connects Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with Avignon.
  • Bus #909 (not #9) connects Lourmarin with Aix-en-Provence.
  • Restaurant La Passerelle in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has closed.
  • Roussillon's Clos de la Glycine hotel and its Chez David restaurant are under new ownership and rebranding as "Omma."
  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

  • The correct email address for Hôtel le Clos du Buis in Bonnieux is [email protected].
  • The Abbey Notre-Dame de Sénanque, visitors can now tour the abbey on their own (Mon–Sat 9:30–11:30 & 13:00–17:30, Sun 14:00–17:30, videoguide now available) — you're no longer required to join a French-language guided tour.
  • La Terrasse in Joucasis now closed on Mondays.
  • La Treille in Roussillon is now closed on Sundays.
  • The correct email address for Hôtel la Clé des Champs in Roussillon is [email protected].
  • The Ochre Conservatory in Roussillon has new hours (check its site).
  • Hotel Sous l'Olivier in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has closed.

Lyon

For books printed before June 2024, the following may also apply:

 

Marseille and nearby

For books printed before April 2024, the following may apply:

  • The Discover Provence tour company is no longer operating.
  • Sophie Bergeron at the Travel in Provence tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Tastes of Provence no longer offers cooking classes.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The Cosquer Méditerranée in Marseille's Euromed district has opened, featuring a re-creation of the Grotte Cosquer, an underwater cave with prehistoric paintings that was discovered in 1985 off the coast near Marseille.
  • Recommended guide Pascale Benguigui has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Marine Museum has closed.
  • Hôtel Relax in Marseille has closed.
  • Toinou les Fruits de Mer seafood cafeteria in Marseille has closed.
  • Direct, cross-border day trains between Marseille/Nice and Genoa/Milan are no longer running; any connections between France and Italy along the Mediterranean now require changing trains in Ventimiglia.

For books printed before December 2020, the following may also apply:

Monaco

  • Bus #601 (not #100) runs eastbound from Nice, stopping in Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and Monaco.
  • The Jardin Exotique (formerly the "Jardin Botanique") is now set to remain closed for renovation throughout 2024 (the nearby Botanical Center remains open).

For books printed before April 2024, the following may also apply:

  • Bus #80 (not #110) connects Nice's airport with Monaco (Place d'Armes stop).
  • The tourist information office at Monaco's train station has closed.
  • Tour Prestige has rebranded as Live Harmony and is now run solely by Cecilia Cotton (+33 625 914 388).
  • A combo-ticket covers both the Prince's Palace and the Prince's car collection.
  • Casino de Monte Carlo is open 10:00–13:00 for sightseeing with an audioguide, and after 14:00 for gambling.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

Mont St-Michel

For books printed before October 2022, the following may apply:

  • Since taxis from Pontorson to Mont St-Michel do not wait at Pontorson's train station, and many area taxis are often pre-booked, it's smart to book your taxi in advance.
  • There is currently no bus service between Mont St-Michel and Dol-de-Bretagne.
  • The tourist information office on Mont St-Michel has moved to a spot just past the King's Gate and now shares space with the post office.
  • We now recommend buying a timed-entry ticket if you'll be visiting the Abbey of Mont St-Michel in high season (May–Sept) or on any weekend; tickets are available online up to a month in advance, as well as at the visitors center on the mainland.
  • Les Terrasses Poulard is now Les Terrasses de la Baie, and Café La Mère Poulard is now Le Mouton Blanc.

For books printed before January 2019, the following may also apply:

  • There is no longer any baggage storage available at Mont St-Michel.

Normandy

  • The Bayeux Tapestry will not be on display between fall 2025 (when the museum currently housing it closes) and early 2027 (when a new museum, adjacent to the current one, is planned to open).

For books printed before June 2024, the following may also apply:

  • Rouen's tourist information office has moved to Esplanade Marcel Duchamp, in the same building that houses the Museum of Fine Arts, a few blocks south of the train station.
  • Rouen's train station no longer offers baggage storage; try Nannybag.com for storage at businesses near the station or the Museum of Fine Arts, which has storage lockers (available only when museum is open).
  • In Rouen, La Maison Sublime, an ancient crypt inside the Palais de Justice holding the remains of the oldest Jewish settlement in France, offers hourlong tours on Saturdays at 10:30 and 14:30. Tours are in French only; request an English booklet when booking. Bring your passport for entry.
  • La Lieutenance, the old port gatehouse in Honfleur, is now open to the public.
  • The website for the D-Day Landing Museum in Arromanches is now at www.musee-arromanches.fr.

For books printed before April 2024, the following may also apply:

For books printed before October 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Monsieur Augy has closed his faience earthenware studio and shop in Rouen; it's now a bookstore (but in his honor the new owners have retained the original storefront).
  • Café Les Impressionistes in Honfleur is now the Bistrot de l'Hôtel de Ville.
  • In Arromanches, there is no longer free parking in the lot between the grocery store and L'Hôtel Ideal de Mountbatten.
  • Restaurant Le Pappagall in Arromanches has closed, as has L'Hôtel d'Arromanches.
  • We now recommend getting around the D-Day beaches by bike (or ebike), as the area now has good bike paths and routes along quiet roads that keep you off the busy highway. LocvélO in Bayeux offers well-crafted self-guided tours.

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before January 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Bayeux offers two choices for car rental. Hertz is the only one that allows you to drop off in a different city and is open daily, but it's not very central (Mon–Fri 8:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 8:00–12:00 & 14:00–17:00, Route de Cherbourg, +33 2 31 92 03 26). Renault Rent is better for local rentals and is just below the train station on the ring road at the Renault dealership (Mon–Sat 7:30–19:30, closed Sun, 16 Boulevard Sadi Carnot, +33 2 31 51 18 51).

For books printed before October 2018, the following may also apply:

  • L'Arrivée de Giverny café in Giverny no longer offers bag storage.

Paris

For books printed before April 2024, the following may also apply:

  • If you plan to use a Paris Museum Pass for to visit the Louvre, you'll need to book much farther in advance — at least six weeks ahead in high season — than needed for standalone Louvre tickets, as passholder spaces are limited. That said, we now recommend booking even Louvre-only tickets as far ahead as possible. The museum is (once again) open late on Fridays (until 21:45), and may also stay open later on Wednesdays as well — check its site for current hours.
  • The Paris Museum Pass is going digital only; paper passes will be sold at participating museums, monuments, and TIs until the stock is depleted.
  • A two-part visitor experience is now open at Notre-Dame Cathedral (in the underground parking garage behind the Archeological Crypt). The "In the Heart of the Restoration" exhibit uses video monitors to explain the monumental task of rebuilding the cathedral following the catastrophic 2019 fire. And the breathtaking "Eternelle Notre-Dame" virtual-reality experience lets visitors travel through time from the cathedral's 12th-century construction up to the fire. Highlights include gazing into the nave from above; watching the assembly of rose windows; "meeting" the cathedral's architect, craftsmen, and first bishop; and gazing at views over Paris from the Middle Ages through today. The first exhibit is free, but the virtual-reality experience is fairly pricey (€35, €25 for kids under 18, cheaper online — choose the Notre-Dame square location, not the other location at La Défense; both parts open Tue–Sun 10:00–20:00, closed Mon).
  • The Delacroix Museum has reopened.
  • When approaching the Orsay Museum, use the entry that accords with your ticket: When facing the entrance, head to the left if you have a pre-booked Orsay ticket; those using a Paris Museum Pass and those purchasing tickets on-site enter on the right (where there's a separate line for each). The Orsay now requires pre-booked tickets for free-ticket days on the first Sunday of the month.
  • Discounted tickets at the Opéra Garnier for those with a ticket to the Orsay Museum are only granted within five days of your Orsay visit.
  • The Grand Palais is now expected to remain closed until at least 2025.
  • The Orangerie Museum now requires pre-booked tickets only for free-entry days on the first Sunday of the month — but we still strongly recommend booking in advance for any Orangerie visit.
  • If you're planning to get a combo-ticket that covers either the Orangerie or Rodin Museum in addition to the Orsay, it's smart to visit the Orsay after buying your combo-ticket at either of those less-crowded museums. (You can book a timed-entry spot before you've purchased a ticket.) There is no longer a combo-ticket that covers both the Orangerie and Monet's gardens in Giverny.
  • Rooms 16–21 at the Cluny Museum are often closed; if this is the case during your visit, you'll need to backtrack to the entrance and climb the stairs to see the museum's final rooms.
  • The escalator to the Centre Pompidou's sixth-floor view terrace is now free. Nearby, the studio of sculptor Constantin Brancusi has closed.
  • The Architecture and Monuments Museum has intriguing exhibits on the Notre-Dame fire (through June 2, 2024).
  • At Les Invalides, a dazzling sounds-and-light show runs after dark from mid-July to early September.
  • At the Eiffel Tower, the Madame Brasserie restaurant has opened on the tower's first level, with two lunch and two dinner seatings. Reserve far in advance, particularly for a view table.
  • Train and bus service from Paris to Château Vaux-le-Vicomte is unpredictable; check transportation websites before going. Likely the best approach is to take a train from Gare de Lyon to Melun and then a taxi to the château.
  • After 75 years in operation, Paris' largest cabaret, the Lido, has shut down. Its building, directly on the Champs-Élysées, now houses a UGC multiplex cinema.
  • The correct email address for Hôtel Eiffel Kensington is [email protected].
  • Hôtel Bonaparte and Hôtel Basss are closing for renovations at some point in 2024.

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

  • We no longer recommend waiting to buy the Paris Museum Pass once you get to Paris — since some covered sights need to be booked ahead (such as the Louvre), it's best to purchase your pass online in advance of your trip.
  • Timed-entry tickets are now required at the Louvre. Visitors can enter at the pyramid up to 30 minutes before their assigned time. Its Post-Impressionist works are now on Level 5 (not Level 2), near the Impressionist rooms.
  • The Cluny Museum has reopened after a major renovation (€12, Tue–Sun 9:30–18:15, closed Mon).
  • The Paris Sewer Museum has reopened (now €9, covered by Museum Pass, Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing).
  • Post-Impressionist works at the Orsay Museum are now in new galleries on level 5, near the Impressionist rooms.
  • The National Maritime Museum has reopened.
  • The tourist-information office in the underground Carrousel du Louvre mall has closed.
  • The hop-on, hop-off bus company L'Open Tour has rebranded as "TootBus" and now runs the "Paris by Night" tour (not Paris City Vision).
  • The 58 Tour Eiffel restaurant has reopened. Reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view (+33 1 72 76 18 46, toll tel. +33 8 25 56 66 62).
  • The Place Gambetta bus stop for Père Lachaise Cemetery is no longer the last stop of the #69 bus route.
  • Disneyland Paris has retired its free Fastpass program. Its new "Premier Access" system allows parkgoers to skip the lines for the most popular rides by paying a fee (which varies by date and attraction).
  • Hotel de la Paix's correct street address is 19 Rue du Gros Caillou.
  • Young & Happy Hostel has closed.
  • Restaurants Les Fables de la Fontaine, Cuillier Coffee, L'Epicerie-Rotisserie Jeanne B, and Le Jardin d'en Face have closed.
  • The Hédiard gourmet shops have closed, as have Fauchon's Traiteur Pâtisserie and its Cave, Chocolat, Épicerie shop.
  • A Paris–Nice night train is now running again (12 hours, does not run daily).
  • Overnight Paris–Italy trains are no longer operating; direct trains between France and Italy are now limited to daytime TGV and Frecciarossa trains on the Paris–Lyon–Turin–Milan route.
  • A new Paris–Vienna night train now runs three times a week (14 hours; keep in mind that flying may be cheaper).
  • Le Bus Direct (formerly just known as the Air France bus) has gone out of business. Good alternatives for reaching the city center from Paris' airports include the Roissybus and RER/Train-B.
  • The correct phone number for airport-transfer service Inter Service Prestige is +37 7 62 23 23 31.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • The Paris Archaeological Crypt has reopened after the Notre-Dame fire closure.
  • The Fragonard Perfume Museum has moved to 3 Square Louis Jouvet.
  • The Carnavalet Museum has reopened after a major multiyear renovation.
  • If you plan to visit the Louvre with a Museum Pass, we recommend making a reservation in advance, even for an off-season visit. You can book a reservation online as late as the day of your visit, even in high season — but you do need to get your Museum Pass first, as the site will ask you to enter your pass's number. While the Museum Pass now carries a one-visit-per-museum restriction, the Louvre's three wings count as different museums for the sake of the pass — so you can visit the Louvre three times on one pass, provided you enter through a different wing each time.
  • The Puces St. Ouen tourist information office has new telephone number: +33 1 55 87 67 50.
  • Bistrot Chez France's phone number is now +33 1 40 67 96 54.
  • Café Delmas on Place de la Contrescarpe has closed.
  • The Poilâne bakery is now closed Sunday.
  • Hotel Bosquet is now Hotel Relais Bosquet. Rick Steves readers can get a discount by booking online with code "RSDEAL."
  • Hôtel Eber-Mars is now Hôtel le Cercle-Tour Eiffel, and has new contact info: +33 1 47 05 42 30, [email protected].
  • Port-Royal Hotel's correct email address is [email protected].
  • The local bus connecting Beauvais airport and the Beauvais train station is now #6 (not #12).
  • SoGymnase Comedy Club no longer offers shows in English.

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The Sacré-Cœur's dome is now open 8:30–20:00 (May–Sept) and 9:00–17:00 (Oct–April).
  • The Arc de Triomphe is no longer free the first Sunday of the month in October (now November–March). Museum Pass holders with kids no longer have to wait in line for tickets at the Arc.
  • The Louvre Wine Museum now closes at 18:00, and the phone number is +33 1 40 28 13 11.
  • The Rodin Museum now stays open until 18:30. There is no longer a separate entry time and cost for the gardens.
  • The Louvre is no longer free on first Sundays.
  • Online reservations for the Eiffel Tower are now available 60 days in advance. From September until mid-June, the last ascent by stairs is at 18:30. For any trip up the tower that includes stairs — any time of year — tickets must be purchased on-site.
  • The Paris Museum Pass is now activated at the time of first use and is time-based (not days-based). For example, a two-day pass gives you 48 hours of use from the time you first use it (e.g. if your first entry is at 13:00, you get 48 hours from 13:00). While prices have increased, it's still the best value of all the passes offered in Paris, and pays for itself with four key admissions in two days (for example, the Louvre, Orsay, Sainte-Chapelle, and Versailles).
  • Paper Métro tickets are being phased out in favor of plastic Navigo travel cards, which cover transit on the Métro, public buses, and the RER/suburban train. Single-use tickets for buses and the RER/suburban train will likely remain available. There are two Navigo options: You can buy your Navigo Easy or Découverte card at any staffed Métro station and at most tabacs.
    • Navigo Easy Card: Load euros onto your €2 Navigo Easy card and pay as you ride (€1.90/ride), or load the card with a 10-ride pass (€14.90) or day pass (€7.50 for Zones 1-2).
    • Navigo Decouverte Pass: This chip-embedded card costs a one-time €5 fee. When you buy, select from a weekly (€23) or monthly pass and ride unlimited during that time.
  • The tourist information office at Gare de l'Est has closed.
  • Local guide Arnaud Servignat's correct email address is [email protected].
  • At the Orangerie Museum, the Walter-Guillaume Collection on the bottom floor has been renovated and reorganized. The collection no longer presents the art chronologically, but now groups paintings by confronting artists.
  • The Paris Webservices has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Bike About Tours' 3.5-hour tour meeting point has changed to Le Peloton Café, located in the Marais at 17 Rue du Pont Louis Philippe. Their additional May–Sept afternoon tour now runs at 14:30.
  • Opéra Garnier's morning guided tours in English that run July–Aug are now at 11:00 daily. Their updated contact information is +33 1 42 46 72 40 or 1 71 25 24 23, [email protected].
  • The Thanksgiving store has closed.
  • The Marché de Saxe street market is only open Thursday and Saturday now (not Tuesday).
  • Stéphane Secco at 20 Rue Jean Nicot has closed.
  • Le Pré Verre has closed.
  • Café de Mars is now closed Sunday–Monday.
  • The Gérard Mulot pâtisserie at 76 Rue de Seine is now called Maison Mulot and is no longer closed Wednesdays.
  • Cave à Jojo has closed.
  • La Poule au Pot is now closed Sat–Sun and has a new phone number: +33 1 47 05 16 36.
  • Autour de Midi et Minuit has closed.
  • Hôtel Prince has closed.
  • The Parler Parlor conversation group has closed.

For books printed before April 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before October 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The tourist information offices in the Opéra neighborhood (25 Rue des Pyramides) and in Montmartre (21 Place du Tertre) have closed.
  • ADP information desks at Paris airports have closed.
  • Cobblestone Paris, an apartment rental company, now offers a 10 percent discount for Rick Steves readers in addition to two free river cruises (no minimum night requirement) — use code RSPARIS. They also have a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Canadian Consulate and Embassy has moved to 130 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (+33 1 44 43 29 02).
  • Brasserie Aux PTT in the Rue Cler no longer offers Rick Steves readers a breakfast special.
  • The Vélib' Bikes system is being overhauled to offer lighter bikes, electric bikes, and an easier booking process; see their new website for updates.
  • City Sightseeing Tours has a new website.
  • The Peugeot dealership on the Champs-Élysées (at #136) has closed.
  • Street parking can now be paid with a credit card — it's no longer necessary to buy a parking card at a tabac.

Reims & Verdun

For books printed before January 2021, the following may apply:

  • Chambres d'Hôte Cathédrale in Reims has closed.

Versailles

For books printed before September 2022, the following may apply:

  • A timed-entry ticket is now required to enter the château. Reserve ahead (no fee) and book an entry time online.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • Visitors can now purchase either a palace-only ticket or a "Le Passeport" pass that includes the Trianon and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette.
  • The Phébus TRI shuttle bus has been discontinued.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply: