Tips for LGBTQ+ Travelers in Europe
By Gabe Gunnink
Today's lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer travelers planning a trip to Europe will find increasingly progressive European countries and a burgeoning pool of travel agents, tour guides, and local businesses that cater directly to the LGBTQ+ community. And while some of these companies stereotype LGBTQ+ vacationers as glittery partygoers, there are opportunities for every type of LGBTQ+ traveler. Whether you're looking for a classic European grand tour or a uniquely queer experience, it's important to know your rights and realize that gender and sexuality are not barriers to enriching adventures overseas.
Europe has been at the vanguard of LGBTQ+ rights for several decades. Legally, the European Union began combatting discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation in 1999; Amsterdam performed the world's first gay marriages in 2001; and Iceland, Belgium, Luxembourg, Ireland, and Serbia have all elected openly LGBTQ+ heads of government. However, as in the US, certain regions of Europe are more welcoming to LGBTQ+ people than others, and ideologies shift between urban and rural communities. Central, northern, and western Europe are almost universally embracing of LGBTQ+ people, as are large cities throughout the continent. In contrast, rural regions of eastern and southern parts of Europe often operate under an unspoken "don't ask, don't tell" policy and occasionally exhibit outright hostility. Russia, Poland, and Hungary have recently made headlines for their antigay policies and attitudes, sentiments that ripple through other formerly communist nations.
Here are some pointers for getting the most out of your travels:
Know your destinations. To research the laws, policies, and attitudes around LGBTQ+ issues in any country, consult Equaldex, which provides helpful maps, summaries, and public opinion data on issues ranging from same-sex marriage to changing gender to employment discrimination. You can also sign up to receive general travel alerts for your destination through the US State Department's Smart Traveler Enrollment Program at Step.State.gov.
Understand the risks. Be aware of the risks of visiting less-welcoming regions and consider how "out" you want to be there. Balancing safety and values can be a challenge. While some LGBTQ+ people have bodies and personal styles that allow them to conform to "normative" expectations, LGBTQ+ travelers who present androgynously or want to publicly display their affections are more visible — and assume greater risk. Travelers in regions with antigay laws or attitudes should be especially wary of using gay dating apps, which have been utilized as methods of entrapment by police and others.
"Pink money" talks. As LGBTQ+ people have become more visible and accepted, their collective purchasing power has grown. Many businesses are happy to cater to LGBTQ+ travelers. Hotels, resorts, cruises, tour companies, and entire destinations brand themselves as gay-friendly paradises to capitalize on this valuable market. Notable examples of "gaycation" hot spots include Sitges (near Barcelona), Brighton (near London), and the Greek island of Mykonos.
Seek out diverse options. The side effect of "pink money" is gay tours, events, and resorts that are overwhelmingly targeted at affluent white male travelers. A growing number of local guides and travel companies are striving to include the full diversity of the LGBTQ+ community. Walking tour groups such as The Gay Locals in Paris, Spain Fred Tours in Madrid, and Original Berlin Walks balance LGBTQ+ points of interest with traditional sights and actively seek to include all travelers, regardless of race, gender, or ability. And online resources like the International LGBTQ+ Travel Association provide recommendations to a wide spectrum of travelers.
Navigate safely. If you need a ride in an area where you aren't completely comfortable, consider using Uber instead of a taxi. Uber has an international support line where you can easily report problems in English. Note that the Uber app allows drivers to see your photo before picking you up, so it's wise to check that it matches your current appearance.
Find a home away from home. The best launchpads for meaningful European exploration are locally operated hotels and guesthouses that put you in the heart of a city. My guidebooks are full of accommodation listings with kind, open-minded owners. If you prefer specifically LGBTQ+ owned options, the online directory PurpleRoofs can connect you with quaint, queer-friendly establishments across Europe. Big chain hotels such as Marriott, Hilton, and Hyatt can also provide peace of mind to nervous LGBTQ+ travelers willing to sacrifice some character.
Celebrate Pride worldwide. It's fun to time your trip to coincide with local Pride celebrations, which flood the streets of Europe's cities with polychromatic parades. Europe offers many other gay-friendly festivals and events to consider. L Fest invites lesbian, bisexual, and trans women to Wales for a weekend of music, art, and social events. The EuroGames welcome LGBTQ+ athletes to compete in dozens of sporting events each summer. Front Runners clubs invite runners and walkers of all ages and abilities to join weekly workouts followed by dinner or drinks. Even the winter months offer festivals such as the Heavenue gay Christmas market in Cologne and Arosa Gay Ski Week in Switzerland. Find a calendar of LGBTQ+ events around the world at IGLTA's site (and note that we include major Pride celebrations in our country-by-country lists of European holidays and festivals).
Extra Considerations for Transgender & Nonbinary Travelers
Transgender and nonbinary travelers face unique — but far from prohibitive — challenges. Two of the largest issues that disproportionately affect these travelers are packing and airport security, especially for those who regularly use prostheses or medications. It's smart to leave extra time for the airport security process and follow these tips to reduce hassle and stress.
Make sure your documents match. When you purchase your airline tickets, remember that TSA agents will not let you through security if the names on your passport and airline ticket do not match exactly. However, according to the National Center for Transgender Equality, your physical appearance and gender presentation are not required to match the picture on your passport, and TSA agents should not comment on it. That said, some LGBTQ+ travelers report difficulties entering other countries when the names and photos on their passports no longer match their gender identities or presentation, so it's wise to update your passport after any major changes.
Many US airlines have recently rolled out new gender options for tickets, and in 2022, the US State Department began issuing passports with an X gender marker with the definition "Unspecified or another gender identity." However, some countries may not recognize the X gender marker, so consult your destination's embassy or consulate before traveling. When traveling internationally, it's best for the sex markers on your tickets and your passport to match. Check the US State Department's travel site for the most current information on how to change your name on your passport and for information on gender markers.
Practice smart packing. Remember that medically necessary liquids and gels are exempt from the usual carry-on luggage volume limits. You'll need to notify a TSA agent if you have items exceeding these limits and remove them from your luggage. If you're checking a bag, consider placing all nonessential medications, hormones, syringes, and prostheses in your checked luggage. Otherwise, place all these items in one bag near the top of your carry-on, along with your prescriptions and doctors' notes. This way you can smoothly remove the items and present them to the TSA agent. Also, bring multiple copies of any medical documents. To expedite screening, the TSA website offers printable TSA Notification Cards, which you can fill out in advance with your relevant medical information, then discreetly hand to a TSA agent.
Plan for the scan. The advanced imaging technology in full-body scanning machines compares travelers to a generic human outline and uses gender-specific algorithms to identify anomalies or areas of unusual density. If significant deviations from the generic outline are detected, you'll likely be pulled aside for a pat-down. Be aware that bulky clothing and prostheses increase the likelihood of a pat-down. These pat-downs are thorough and may feel invasive, but you should never be asked to expose or remove a prosthetic. You can request a private screening with a witness of your choice and a TSA agent who matches your gender identity — just ask. Consider registering with TSA Precheck to speed up your security check.
The TSA has a toll-free hotline that you can call with any questions at 855-787-2227. If you believe you have been mistreated by airport security, file a complaint with the Aviation Consumer Protection Division.
Finally, remember that European airport workers are likely to reflect the values of the regions they work in. Consider organizing your trip to fly through tolerant regions, to increase the likelihood of a positive airport-security experience.
Find accommodating relief. Unlike the US, European nations have not felt the need to legislate transgender and nonbinary people's bathroom access. However, transgender and nonbinary travelers should research a country's laws governing gender change and monitor local attitudes around LGBTQ+ issues to gauge their safety in various regions. Helpfully, unisex and single-stall WCs are common in Europe, and the Refuge Restrooms app can help you track down WCs in many major European cities.
Gabe Gunnink is a former educator on LGBTQ+ issues and a current staff member of Rick Steves' Europe.